EDINBURGH,August 16,1848
My dear Uncle and Aunt:...Of Edinburgh I cannot say enough to express my admiration.The Castle Rock,Arthur's Seat,Salisbury Craigs and Calton Hill are all separate and fine mountains and,with the Frith of Forth,the ocean and the old picturesque town,make an assemblage of fine objects that I have seen nowhere else.Mr.
Rutherford,the Lord Advocate,who is of the Ministry,had written to his friends that we were coming,and several gentlemen came by breakfast time the next morning.Mr.Gordon,his nephew,married the daughter of Prof.Wilson,and invited us to dine that day to meet the professor,etc....We drove out after breakfast into the country to Hawthornden,formerly the residence of Drummond the poet,and to Lord Roslin's grounds,where are the ruins of Roslin Castle and above all,of the Roslin Chapel....After lingering and admiring long we returned to Edinburgh just in season for dinner at Mr.Gordon's,where we found Prof.Wilson,and another daughter and son,Mrs.Rutherford,wife of the Lord Advocate,and Capt.
Rutherford,his brother,with his wife.We had a very agreeable evening and engaged to dine there again quite EN FAMILLE,with only the professor,whose conversation is delightful.
The next morning we went out to Craigcrook,Lord Jeffrey's country seat,to see and lunch with him.He was confined to his couch....He is seventy-three or seventy-four,but looks not a minute older than fifty.He has a fine head and forehead,and most agreeable and courteous manners,rather of the old school.As he could not rise to receive me he kissed my hand.Mrs.Jeffrey is an intelligent and agreeable woman but has been much out of health the last year.She was Miss Wilkes of New York,you know.The house was an old castellated and fortified house,and with modern additions is a most beautiful residence.Capt.Rutherford told me that when he received the Lord Advocate's letter announcing that we were coming,he went to see Lord Jeffrey to know if he would be well enough to see us,and he expressed the strongest admiration for Mr.Bancroft's work.
This may have disposed them to receive us with the cordiality which made our visit so agreeable.Mr.Empson,his son-in-law and the president editor of the Edinburgh Review,was staying there,and after talking two hours with Lord and Mrs.Jeffrey we took with him a walk in the grounds from which are delightful and commanding views of the whole environs,and never were environs so beautiful.