The Malays also have almost a monopoly of cart-hiring and horse-keeping;an Englishman charges 4pounds 10S.or 5pounds for a carriage to do what a Malay will do quicker in a light cart for 30S.S-says,'The English here think the coloured people ought to do the work,and they to get the wages.Nothing less would satisfy them.'Servants'wages are high,but other wages not much higher than in England;yet industrious people invariably make fortunes,or at least competencies,even when they begin with nothing.But few of the English will do anything but lounge;while they abuse the Dutch as lazy,and the Malays as thieves,and feel their fingers itch to be at the blacks.The Africanders (Dutch and negro mixed in various proportions)are more or less lazy,dirty,and dressy,and the beautiful girls wear pork-pie hats,and look very winning and rather fierce;but to them the philanthropists at home have provided formidable rivals,by emptying a shipload of young ladies from a 'Reformatory'into the streets of Capetown.
I am puzzled what to think of the climate here for invalids.The air is dry and clear beyond conception,and light,but the sun is scorching;while the south-east wind blows an icy hurricane,and the dust obscures the sky.These winds last all the summer,till February or March.I am told when they don't blow it is heavenly,though still cold in the mornings and evenings.No one must be out at,or after sunset,the chill is so sudden.Many of the people here declare that it is death to weak lungs,and send their POITRINAIRES to Madeira,or the south of France.They also swear the climate is enervating,but their looks,and above all the blowsy cheeks and hearty play of the English children,disprove that;and those who come here consumptive get well in spite of the doctors,who won't allow it possible.I believe it is a climate which requires great care from invalids,but that,with care,it is good,because it is bracing as well as warm and dry.It is not nearly so warm as I expected;the southern icebergs are at no great distance,and they ice the south-east wind for us.If it were not so violent,it would be delicious;and there are no unhealthy winds -nothing like our east wind.The people here grumble at the north-wester,which sometimes brings rain,and call it damp,which,as they don't know what damp is,is excusable;it feels like a DRYsouth-wester in England.It is,however,quite a delusion to think of living out of doors,here;the south-easters keep one in nearly,if not quite,half one's time,and in summer they say the sun is too hot to be out except morning and evening.But I doubt that,for they make an outcry about heat as soon as it is not cold.The transitions are so sudden,that,with the thermometer at 76degrees,you must not go out without taking a thick warm cloak;you may walk into a south-easter round the first spur of the mountain,and be cut in two.In short,the air is cold and bracing,and the sun blazing hot;those whom that suits,will do well.I should like a softer air,but I may be wrong;when there is only a moderate wind,it is delicious.You walk in the hot sun,which makes you perspire a very little;but you dry as you go,the air is so dry;and you come in untired.I speak of slow walking.There are no hot-climate diseases;no dysentery,fever,&c.
Simon's Bay,18th Nov.-I came on here in a cart,as I felt ill from the return of the cold weather.While at Rathfelder we had a superb day,and the J-s drove me over to Constantia,which deserves all its reputation for beauty.What a divine spot!-such kloofs,with silver rills running down them!It is useless to describe scenery.It was a sort of glorified Scotland,with sunshine,flowers,and orange-groves.We got home hungry and tired,but in great spirits.Alas!next day came the south-easter -blacker,colder,more cutting,than ever -and lasted a week.
The Walkers came over on horseback,and pressed me to go to them.
They are most kind and agreeable people.The drive to Simon's Bay was lovely,along the coast and across five beaches of snow-white sand,which look like winter landscapes;and the mountains and bay are lovely.
Living is very dear,and washing,travelling,chemist's bills -all enormous.Thirty shillings a cart and horse from Rathfelder here -twelve miles;and then the young English host wanted me to hire another cart for one box and one bath!But I would not,and my obstinacy was stoutest.If I want cart or waggon again,I'll deal with a Malay,only the fellows drive with forty Jehu-power up and down the mountains.
A Madagascar woman offered to give me her orphan grandchild,a sweet brown fairy,six years old,with long silky black hair,and gorgeous eyes.The child hung about me incessantly all the time Iwas at Rathfelder,and I had a great mind to her.She used to laugh like baby,and was like her altogether,only prettier,and very brown;and when I told her she was like my own little child,she danced about,and laughed like mad at the idea that she could look like 'pretty white Missy'.She was mighty proud of her needlework and A B C performances.
It is such a luxury to sleep on a real mattrass -not stuffed with dirty straw;to eat clean food,and live in a nice room.But my cough is very bad,and the cruel wind blows on and on.I saw the doctor of the Naval Hospital here to-day.If I don't mend,I will try his advice,and go northward for warmth.If you can find an old Mulready envelope,send it here to Miss Walker,who collects stamps and has not got it,and write and thank dear good Lady Walker for her kindness to me.
You will get this about the new year.God bless you all,and send us better days in 1862.
